Hawaiian Noir

Murder Calls

What I’m Reading

Chimichangas and a Couple of Glocks by David H. Hendrickson. Guns + Tacos, Season 3, Episode 15.

Fuller Park sits in the heart of Chicago’s killing zone. A trip down there, at night, puts your life at risk. But for Lizzie, it is life-changing. For there, at Fuller Park, is a certain taco truck, whose “special” can be life-saving, or life-taking, or both. Lizzie knows the danger, but, desperate to save the man she thinks she loves, she is willing to risk it all. Lizzie is a life-long victim of physical, emotional, and sexual abuse. Hendrickson navigates us through the pit of Lizzie’s personal hell from which there is only one way out. Will she be up to it? The reader can only sit back and hang on as this ride takes you through one dark turn after another. Get on board! You won’t regret it. Savor this spicy dish smothered in noir, violence on the side.

I’ll have more on the Hawai’i trip in a later post. This weekend we are in Chicago. Mary Fran visited some of her childhood friends. Ted, Mike, and I went to a Cubs and Cards game at Wrigley Field. We took the L to Wrigley. It was about an hour ride from our hotel. The L is an experience. When it gets to the Northside, it goes past apartments that are right next to the tracks, just like in The Blues Brothers. After getting off the L, we battled the crowds at Wrigleyville and made it to Al’s Beef, about two blocks from the field, for their famous Italian beef sandwiches. They were worth the effort to get there. 

The friendly confines of Wrigley Field. I’d been there years before for game. Mike had been with us, but he was very young and remembered little of it. Ted had never been, but Wrigley was on his bucket list. The Cardinals are contending for a wild card spot, but the Cubs are out. Because of that, tickets were easy to get and half of the stadium appeared to be wearing red.

We had great seats under the roof, second level, third base side. It was an exciting game with some exchanges in home runs early on. The Cubs and Cards were tied up through the middle innings, but then, in the eighth, a double play with a play at the plate and a rundown between 2nd and 3rd took the wind out of the Cubs. The cards scored a couple of runs and won 8-5. We went back out to Wrigleyville and found a bar showing the Aggie game on TV. Such a let down. We took the L back to the hotel and picked up a Chicago-style deep dish pizza from Giordano’s. 

Deep dish pizza is not my favorite. I prefer extra-thin crust. The deep dish had too much dough to my liking. Despite that, Giordano’s Chicago classic was pretty good. It was like a layered dish. Mozzarella on the bottom, pepperoni, more mozzarella, peppers, onions and sausage, pizza sauce on top. So thick that one slice was enough. 

Ted left the next day. Mary Fran, Mike, and i drove through Mary Fran’s old neighborhood, past her old home near Marquette Park and then past the University of Chicago. We caught Lake Shore drive and took it past Soldier’s Field, the museums, Navy Pier, as far north as Loyola University. Then we went back to Millennium Park.Michigan Ave., north of the river, was closed to traffic for an art festival. the festival was disappointing, but underneath the Plaza of the Americas, on lower Michigan, we found The Billy Goat Tavern. 

The Billy Goat is famous for the curse put on the Cubs by the owner who was refused entrance to Wrigley Field with his billy goat. The curse was lifted when the Cubs won the World Series in 2016, but the tavern remains below the street. Beers are $5, cheezborgers are $6. Decor does not appear to have changed since the 1960’s. 

After leaving Billy Goat, we continued the driving tour with a stop at La Villita Park near the Little Village section of the Southside. La Villita was the setting for my story Dos Tacos Guatemaltecos y Una Pistola Casera. I had been there only virtually on Google Earth, so I wanted to see it for real. A surprise to me is that it is higher than the surrounding area, which doesn’t make a difference to the story. It is also nicer than I expected it to be, with well-maintained paths and fields. A soccer game was in progress. A lot of families had set up chairs and canopies. I located a spot where a taco truck might park. I also saw, to my surprise, that the park borders Cook County Jail. Again, that doesn’t make a difference to the story.

We drove past Comiskey Park, home of the White Sox. Mary Fran said seeing Soldier’s Field, Wrigley Field, and Comiskey Park is the sports trifecta. The neighborhood around Comiskey is depressed. It turns out that Fuller Park, the location of the story at the beginning of this post, is near Comiskey. Since we had earlier been to Millennium Park, where Gary Philips set his Guns + Tacos story, you could say we hit the Guns + Tacos trifecta—Millennium, La Villita, and Fuller.

Diamond Head by moonlight 8/20/21
Diamond Head Sunrise 8/21/21

We had a full moon last night and it was gorgeous. In the top photo, the moon is behind clouds, but you can see the moon glow on the ocean just beyond Diamond Head, which is bathed in moonlight. The area below our condo is bright with lights from homes, apartments, and traffic. Dillinghham Fountain is brightly lit. The next photo shows the same scene at daybreak.

Today is our last Saturday in Waikiki. We leave for Maui early next Saturday morning. I’m going to miss Waikiki. It’s been fun and exciting.

Last night we had dinner at Da Ono Hawaiian Food on Kapahulu. Da Ono is a long-time tradition in Honolulu. We ate there when we lived here in the 1980s and revisited it again during our trip in 2017. At that time, the restaurant was going out of business. In fact, we ate there on one of it’s last days. However, we discovered on this trip that, after being closed for awhile, it reopened in the same, somewhat shabby, location. The walls are decorated with vinyl record albums we remember from the 70s and 80s—Frank DeLima live at The Noodle Shop, Andy Bumatai, Rap Reiplinger’s Poi Dog, the Beamers, Peter Moon, Danny Kalekini. They’ve probably hung on the walls for more than 40 years. The tables and chairs are relatively new, however, and unscarred. We had pipikalau, chicken long rice, laulau, lomilomi salmon, poi, rice, and haupia. The laulau was gigantic. We split it, of course. I don’t know how anyone could eat a whole one. Overall, the food was good, but I think Helena’s is better. On the plus side,there was no waiting to be seated at Da Ono and it’s only a short bus ride from our condo.

Tonight, we’re exploring music again. Ben Kahele of Kanakapila, whom we heard in Hilo last month, will be performing at the Sheraton. The mai tais there are $20, but they are good. Tomorrow afternoon, Taimane Gardner is performing at the Blue Note. We have tickets for her show.

While we are here, I’m gathering sights and information for current stories I’m working on and for upcoming stories.

In the Ava Rome stories, Ava has an office above a small market on McCully Street. That particular building is where Nomos Institute, where I worked as a graduate student, was located. In my work in progress, that building has been torn down and Ava had to move. I walked by the site today, and, lo and behold, the building has been torn down. All of the other surrounding buildings are intact as far as I can recall. Instead there is a wooden wall with a mural surrounding the site.

Mural at MCCully and Algaroba Streets, former site of Nomos Institute, 8/21/21

One of the first people I met as a grad student at UH, was another grad student, Rosalie Tatsuguchi. Rosie was a few years older than me. Her father had been a Buddhist priest at a Jodo Shinshu mission on Beretania. She told me a haunting story about the day after the attack on Pearl Harbor. Her father was arrested, as were many Japanese community leaders. They did not see him until after the war. Her story inspired two of the books I’m currently working on. We used to visit her father’s temple for Bon Dances in July or August. The temple stands today.

Shinshu Kyokai Misson, Beretania Street, 8/21/21

Rosalie’s brother, Roland, took over the mission from their father. He is still head of it, though he would be 90 years old.

Shinshu Kyokai Temple Directory, 8/21/21

I had no idea what the inside of a Jodo Shinshu temple looks like. In the story, I made my best guess, and I was not far off. The only thing that surprised me were the pews. I expected parishioners to sit on the floor or on mats.

Interior, Shishu Kyokai Temple, 8/21/21

Jodo Shinhu Buddhism, or Shin Buddhism, also known as Pure Land Buddhism, was founded by the monk, Shinran Shonin.

Shinran thought humanity’s ability to listen to and practice the Buddhist teachings deteriorates over time and loses effectiveness in bringing individual practitioners closer to Buddhahood. Shinran saw the age he was living in as being a degenerate one where beings cannot hope to be able to extricate themselves from the cycle of birth and death through their own power. He believed all conscious efforts towards achieving enlightenment and realizing the Bodhisattva ideal were contrived and rooted in selfish ignorance; for humans of this age are so deeply rooted in karmic evil as to be incapable of developing the truly altruistic compassion that is requisite to becoming a Bodhisattva.

Due to his awareness of human limitations, Shinran advocates reliance on tariki, or other power—the power of Amida in order to attain liberation. Shin Buddhism can therefore be understood as a “practiceless practice”, for there are no specific acts to be performed such as there are in the “Path of Sages”. In Shinran’s own words, Shin Buddhism is considered the “Easy Path” because one is not compelled to perform many difficult, and often esoteric, practices in order to attain higher and higher mental states.

Jōdo Shinshū drew much of its support from lower social classes in Japan who could not devote the time or education to other esoteric Buddhist practices or merit-making activities. Today, it is probably the most widely practiced form of Buddhism in Japan..

Shinran Shonin statue at Shinshu Kyokai Temple, 8/21/21

Another setting used in my current work is Mo’ili’ili Japanese Cemetery on Kapiolani Blvd. The cemetery was founded in 1908 and sits atop a basalt lava flow, which makes if unsuitable for agriculture, but good for grave sites, as remains are interred in small mausoleums. The cemetery contains some 13,000 family markers, each with a small crypt for ashes of the deceased. It’s size represents the influx of Japanese in the late 1800, early 1900s. The cemetery is surrounded by highrise buildings and two-story apartments that crowd against the walls. You might not know it was there if you did not look for it. The first picture below was taken from a pedestrian overpass crossing Kapiolani. You can read more about the cemetery here.

Mo’ili’ili Japanese Cemetery, 8/11/21
Entrance to Mo’ili’ili Japanese Cemetery, 8/11/21
Nomura Family Monument, 8/11/21

There is a character in my story, a young girl named Yuki Nomura, who’s death on the eve of Pearl Harbor, is the subject of Ava’s investigation. I created the character long before I knew about the cemetery’s existence. It was only after many drafts that I wrote a scene depicting her family’s grave in the cemetery. I scrolled through an online list of families, but did not see the Nomura name. I didn’t look carefully enough. One tradition is that, if the grave contains the remains of a child or young woman, a certain type of statue or icon, called a Jizo is placed in front to protect the child in the afterlife. In my story, there is a Jizo in front of the Nomura family monument. The link to the cemetery restoration above, mentions finding Jizo at some of the graves. When I visited the cemetery, I looked for Jizo, but didn’t find any. Since I had not seen the Nomura name in the cemetery catalog, I was unprepared when I found the monument. I have to admit, the feeling on seeing the monument was unsettling. Once I got past that feeling, I wondered if I might find a Jizo. I didn’t, but look at the base of the monument. A teddy bear. I think a Jizo could not have been more unnerving.

Kaiwi, entrance to Outrigger Canoe Club, Waikiki, 8/17/21

Kaiwi, the female monk seal, who, for the previous two weeks, spent her days at Kaimana Beach near our condo, has now taken up residence on the beach right below our condo. This is the beach used by Outrigger Canoe Club to put their canoes in the water and take them out. The paddlers carry the long, six person canoes, up and down those steps behind Kaiwi. Some of the canoes in their red covers can be seen atop the steps. Outrigger is one of the premier, best funded, canoe clubs in Hawai’i, maybe the world, but they are stymied by Kaiwi. By law, monk seals cannot be disturbed because they are endangered. Whenever one shows up at a beach, as Kaiwi does, animal welfare folks mark off an area around her, in which people are not allowed to enter. The orange cones define the protected area. Right up to the Outrigger steps. There is no way they can get canoes up or down while Kaiwi is sunning herself.

Friday, 8/13/21, Outrigger canoes putting in on beach

As you can see in the photo above, hauling a canoe onto the beach takes all of the crew.

Privately-owned outrigger canoes moored in the ocean near the Outrigger Canoe Club

I never get tired of looking at the canoes and boats in the water near Diamond Head.

Another thing I never get tired of is seeing Diamond Head in the morning. Since we have been in Hawai’i, I’ve made it a point to photograph the view from our condo at sunrise and again at sunset. We have not always been in a position to see sunrise, but I gat what I can. While in Waikiki, for example, the sun comes up behind Diamond Head, which is always dramatic. At our location, we see gorgeous sunsets over the Waianae Mountains (actually setting over Ewa.) Here’s sunrise this morning over Diamond Head.

Sunrise, Diamond Head, 8/7/21

High surf advisories were out this morning. When I went up Diamond Head, I found a lot of surfers checking out the waves. Some were saying the conditions were dangerous and might require some rescues. Not being a surfer, I can’t say, but these are the waves this morning. they do appear larger than on previous days. The guy in the photo is about 300 feet above the ocean.

Waikiki, Diamond Head Beach, 8/17/21

I’ve been taking Uke lessons with an instructor in Kaimuki, only a few miles from where we are. When we lived here, we did not get to Kaimuki often because we lived in another section of town. We’re sorry. that we didn’t. Kaimuki is an older area, homes from about the 1930s, and a downtown area with small shops. and restaurants. We had had lunch at Noods, which I mentioned last week. On another day, we went to a great Chinese Dim Sum restaurant called Happy Day.. Nearby, we found a great place for poke—Tamura’s. They are actually a wine and liquor store, but they have a poke counter with a dozen varieties of poke. Really good!

Took the bus deep into the end of Manoa Valley, yesterday, and walked to Lyon Arboretum. It’s a beautiful tropical forest with sections devoted to ethnobotany.

Manoa Valley, Lyon Arboretum, 8/16/21
Forest trail, Lyon Arboretum, 8/16/21

What I’m Reading:

Two Tamales, One Tokarev, and a Lifetime of Broken Promises by Stacy Woodson

In episode 14 of the Guns + Tacos series, we meet Viv, a former street hustler who got religion in prison and became a minister to serve the people who, like herself, made a wrong turn in life and need someone to point them to the way back. It was devotion to her brother that caused Viv to take the wrong turn in the first place, and, now that she’s found her own way back, she wants to make sure her brother does, too. Brother, however, can’t help but stray. Inevitably, he strays so far that he is beyond the reach of prayer. Viv, in order to save him, must turn to something more powerful than prayer—something that only a certain taco truck can provide. After a lifetime of broken promises, Viv takes steps to make sure there will be no more. Woodson delivers one unbroken promise in this story; that of a compelling, fast-paced tale of desperation and sisterly devotion with an ending that, for all the twists and turns, this reader didn’t see coming.

 

Sunset, boats approaching Honolulu, 8/15/21
Sunrise oer Diamond Head Beach with Koko Head in the background, 8/10/21

This morning started off great but ended up worrisome. I ran up Diamond Head, something I haven’t done since about 1981. From 1977 to 1981 I attended the Honolulu Marathon Clinics on Sundays in Kapiolani Park at the base of Diamond Head. I probably ran Diamond Head 30+ times a year for five years and finished six marathons in that time. Now I’m back. I walked it a few times in prep last week and ran it today. God, it felt good to run it. The shot of Koko Head was taken from the top near the lighthouse.

Diamond Head Lighthouse, 8/10/21

This morning I had an ukulele class at Ukulele Hale in Kaimuki. I’ve been struggling to find lessons since we’ve been here, but, because of covid, many are shut down. I have four more lessons at Ukulele Hale before we head to Maui for the Kahumoku workshop.

Today, the governor of Hawaii imposed restrictions on gatherings because of covid. They had been loosening up, but cases have been on the rise (though not rising as fast as Texas.) The new order resticts public gatherings to 25 or fewer. We actually learned about this order while watching performers at Waikiki Beachwalk. They have been performing every Tuesday night, but they announced that this is their last performance for the immediate future, because gatherings have to be limited to 25 or fewer.

Blaine Kia, Waikiki Beachwalk, 8/10/21

My worry, of course, is that the new restrictions will result in the Kahumoku workshop to be canceled or severely curtailed. This pisses me off. Warning—rant coming. This virus is deadly. People need to care for each other and protect each other because, in a close society, failing to protect one is failing to protect all. We have the means to combat this virus. Vaccines stop the virus from reproducing. If the virus can’t reproduce, it can’t spread, and , more importantly, it can’t evolve into more dangerous forms. We are seeing it evolve. Those of you who refuse the vaccine on any grounds—freedom of choice or whatever bullshit you throw up—are killers, just as someone who runs a red ight, or fires a weapon into a crowd are killers. By refusing the vaccine, you are endangering me, my family, my children and grandchildren, and for that I cannot forgive you. We have freedom only as long as we have life. It is absolutely false to refuse a vaccine in the name of freedom, because vaccine refusal leads to death, not life, not freedom.

Hawaiian Food

Okay, I’ve mentioned poke before, so I won’t go into that. Last week we went to Helena’s Hawaiian Food. Helena’s is a local favorite going back to 1946. They are located in Kalihi, a blue-collar neighborhood west of downtown, down the hill from Kamehameha Schools. The bus ride took an hour. The wait in line was 45 minutes. Helena’s hasn’t changed much since we were last there 35 years ago. They have painted the walls inside and have replaced the furniture (I think). It is still small and the menu is the same. We had poi, lomi-lomi salmon, kalua pork (imu baked pig), pipi kaula (beef short ribs), and squid luau. Squid luau is a mush of taro leaves, squid, and coconut milk. I had forgotten how good it tastes. The meal was served with sliced Maui onions and sea salt for the side. For dessert we had haupia, a coconut custard. The ride, the wait, were all worth it. Helena’s is, was, and always will be, the best in Hawaiian food. Well, we will try Da Ono soon and see if that still stacks up to what we remember.

Curry ramen at Noods in Kaimuki, 8/10/21

After my uke lesson, we went around the corner to Nood’s Ramen Noodle shop on Waialae Avenue in Kaimuki. Ramen shops have popped up everywhere since we left. They seem to have taken the place of saimin. I had the August special. Curry ramen with chicken katsu (chicken cutlet.) Besides the ramen noodles, it had bamboo shoots, green onions, a shoyu egg (semi-hardboiled in shoyu), seaweed, and the cutlet on top. The broth was curry and shoyu. Fantastic! Broke da mout’ as Hawaiians say. Mary Fran had miso ramen with char siu and a shoyu egg. Also excellent. We also had their kimchee pot stickers.

Kimchee pot stickers, Noods, Kaimuki, 8/10/21

Following the performance at Waikiki Beachwalk, we went for mai tais at the Royal Hawaiian Mai Tai Bar.They pride themselves on having the best mai tais. Their’s is a modification of Vic Bergeron’s original recipe. The only difference is that they add pineapple juice to the mix of orgeat, orange curacao, lime juice, and two rums. Where Vic used light and dark Caribbean rums, the Mai Tai Bar uses Lahaina rums.

Mai tais at the. Mai Tai Bar, Waikiki, 8/10/21

In making a mai tai, the light rum and other juices are mixed and the dark rum is floated on top to produce the two-layer effect.There are two kinds of people in the world. Those who stir their mai tai and those who don’t. I’m one of the latter. I like to sip the dark rum from the top and, alternately, dip a straw into the light part. Eventually, everything gets mixed, of course, until then, I get a varied taste sensation.

What I’m Reading

Five Decembers 

James Kestrel

Hard Case Crime

October, 2021

The location is Honolulu, Hawai’i, the date, a few days before Thanksgiving, 1941. The discovery of the bodies of two young people, one, the nephew of the top admiral in Hawai’i, the other, an unidentified young woman, gives Honolulu Police Detective Joe McGrady his most challenging case. The story is set against the lead-up to the attack on Pearl Harbor. The whole country knows war is imminent. What McGrady doesn’t know is how the deaths of these two people affected the cataclysm that follows. 

McGrady gets a lead on the killer, but is unable to learn the identity of the young woman. He tracks the killer through the Pacific to Hong Kong where he arrives the day before the Japanese invade and conquer the territory. McGrady is taken prisoner, but is befriended by a Japanese official who helps him identify the young woman and the reason for her death. 

McGrady rides out the war in Tokyo where he witnesses the carnage that US air raids inflict on the populace. He also meets a beautiful woman who changes his life. Returning to Honolulu after the war, he is able to get his old job back, but learns that the case that sent him to the Pacific, has been closed. McGrady, however, believes the killer is still at large and continues to work the case on his own, sparking the ire of his superior.

Once again McGrady returns to Hong Kong to confront the killer and obtain justice for the two young people. He finally completes his mission in the dead of winter, five Decembers after taking on the case.

Five Decembers is a gripping story of heart-rending love and devotion in a time of inhumanity and destruction. It is wrapped around a skillfully written tale of murder and espionage. Kestrel masterfully recreates the setting and atmosphere of pre-war Honolulu and the Pacific. This is an absorbing novel that you will not want to put down and which you will revisit again and again. It will be released in October by Hard Case Crime. It is available for pre-order now on Amazon. A reminder that this year marks the eightieth anniversary of the attack on Pearl Harbor. This book makes a valuable contribution to the literature of that era.

Like a summer heat wave, the new season of Guns + Tacos is on us. July saw the launch of season three, episode 13, Two More Tacos, a Beretta .32, and a Pink Butterfly. Dave Zeltserman delivers all the noir and all the carnage readers have come to expect from the series while twisting our emotions into tight knots, 

“Lance was the guy to call whenever there was an ugly, festering problem that badly needed lancing.”

That was how he got his moniker. The festering problem? A botched job by a low-level hit man that left a witness in the wind. Lance’s job is to find the witness and eliminate her. All he has to go on is that she is blonde and has a pink butterfly tattoo on her butt cheek. Lance sets an elaborate trap to catch the pink butterfly, but, when he does catch her, what does he do with her? Lance’s solution heats up the streets of Chicago. Once again, everybody’s favorite taco truck purveys the weaponry that gets the action started. Dave Zeltserman has crafted a story that you can’t put down. The twist at the end is both satisfying and disturbing. From Down & Out Books. Also available on Amazon. Do yourself a favor and get the whole season.

Outrigger Canoe, Colony Surf Beach, Waikiki, Sunset, 8/2/21

I’m trying to arrange ukulele lessons while in Waikiki, but it is really difficult with all of the covid restrictions. I had arranged some lessons with Roy Sakuma Studios, but they were canceled because of Covid. Yesterday, I approached The Ukulele Store in Waikiki because they advertise free lessons. However, they have discontinued them due to covid. The shop owner was very appologetic and directed me to Ukulele Hale in Kaimuki. I am waiting on a call-back from them, but due t the caution that is so evident in Hawaii, I am not holding onto much hope. I actually have a nagging fear that the Kahumoku workshop at the end of this month will be canceled. I hope that’s not so, but I can’t shake the fear.

I do applaud the Hawaiian’s attempts to mitigate the virus. You cannot go into any indoor public space without a mask. We cannot leave our condo without a mask. I carry a mask with me on my morning walks and put it on whenever I approach someone else on the street, just as I did in the early days of the pandemic. Most people on the streets are also wearing masks. Mask-wearers can even be found on the beaches. The state has made great efforts to educate people about masks and covid with signs everywhere, even painted on sidewalks. Hawaii has a lot to lose, so they need to cautious. There would be no place to send sick people if the hospitals fill up. Because of the efforts, the infection rate is less than half of Texas’s. I am going to hate to go bak to Texas when this trip is over. By September, I expect the virus to be burning through Texas like a California wildfire.

Music: We have tickets for two performances at the Blue Note. On Sunday, they are having a slack-key guitar festival with some top Hawaiian performers. The week after will be ukulele virtuoso Taimane. Yesterday evening we caught Blaine Kia & Kalei Kahalewai known as KAMANAWA performing free at Waikiki Beachwalk. Also performing hula were members of Blaine’s family.

KAMANAWA at Waikiki Beachwalk 8/3/21. Blaine’s wife and daughters dancing.
Blain Kia’s wife and son performing, 8/3/21

Kaimana Beach, near our condo, is home to a monk seal who has taken up residence there. She shows up every morning before six and leaves about sunset to hunt and forage. She gave birth to a pup a few months ago. The pup has now left on his own. This same seal has shown up here for several years. Monk seals re protected, so whenever she shows (whenever any seal shops up on any beach) an alert is sent out and volunteers appear to rope off the sand for her and shoo people away. I heard a story that a honeymoon couple recently came across a seal. The bride went to pet it and the seal became aggressive. I think the bride might have slapped the seal. The groom got it all on video and, stupidly, posted it to social media. Now the honeymooners are facing tens of thousands of dollars in fines. Nice way to start off a marriage.

Monk seal, Kaimana Beach

We got ourselves bus passes. The wait was nearly two hours because so many people wanted to purchase them. The passes cost $6 each and are good for a month. Now that we have them, we can go anywhere on Oahu.

I had forgotten how easy it is to get anywhere by walking in Honolulu. This morning, I walked the length of the. Ala Wai Canal to McCully street, which took me out of Waikiki. From there, I walked up to King Street through the Mo’ili’ili area. The small homes there looked just as I remembered from forty years ago. The only change is the market at King and Algoroba is gone. Bob Heath’s Nomos Institute was located in a tiny office above the market when I worked for him as a graduate assistant from ‘77 to ‘79. The University Federal Credit Union next door to where the market was has had a facelift as has the Jack In The Box on the corner, but nothing else has changed. From there I walked to University and King Streets, where Kinko’s was located as was Moose Magillycuddy’s where we hung out after classes at UH. The Moose has moved to Lewers St. in Waikiki. I don’t know where Kinko’s moved to. From there, I walked down University to Iolani School, around the school on a nice jogging path that took me to Kapahulu and back to Kapiolani Park. Total distance: 7 miles, time: about 2 hours.

Sun rising over Koolau Mountains, Kapiolani Park, 8/3/21

Saw this sign on a restaurant on King Street and am really curious what they serve. Tempura BBQ?:

Japanese restaurant, King St. Honolulu, 8/4/21

Out condo is next door to the Outrigger Canoe Club. Most people recognize the Outrigger as the Kamehameha Club run by Larry Mannetti on the old Magnum PI. From our window we can look down on the club’s sand volleyball courts. The club shares a beach with our condo. Yesterday we were on the beach and met Kawika and Eric Shoji, two members of the US men’s volleyball team who had just returned from Japan. They, of course, are buddies with our nephew Murphy, who won bronze with the team in Rio.

Yesterday we brought the Big Island part of our vacation to a close. In six weeks, we saw parts of the island we has not seen before (Some parts had been added since our last visit in 2018, the lava filling in Pohoiki Bay being one f them). We also crammed a lot of activities into our stay. We spent four weeks in Kona on the Western side of the island. Most of that time we had the kids and grandkid with us, followed by my sister Anne and brother-in-law, Mike. We snorkeled, surfed, hiked, swam with the mantas, and toured Waipi’o valley. We filled the period between adventures with gin & tonics and poke.

After the Anne and Mike left, we moved to a condo in Hilo for two weeks, just the two of us. Instead of being close to a beach, as we were in Kona, we were close to tide pools and a tropical rain forest.

Carl Smith Beach Park, Keaukaha, Hilo,July 2021

Hilo, on the windward side, tends to get more rain than Kona. We had rain nearly every day. Some days were intermittent, while other days it rained all day. It was never enough to prevent us from doing what we wanted. Mostly we relaxed, visited the markets, and toured lava fields in Puna. There is a lava museum in Pahoa where we spent an hour and a half looking at the exhibits, learning about the lava flows and the geology of the islands from the curator. In Hilo, we toured the Lyman museum, which is marvelously informative about the flora and fauna of the Big Island. We also learned about the history of the Big Island, and, in particular, the immigration of different peoples to work the sugar plantations. The Hawaiian labor force had been greatly reduced by European diseases. First the planters imported Chinese. They were followed by Portuguese from the Azores. Then came Japanese, Koreans, and Filipinos. The planters hoped that by bringing in different groups, they could eliminate labor strife by making it difficult for their workers to organize. It probably worked for a time. but the workers did get together and developed a common language, pidgin english, which is a vibrant creole of Hawaiian, English, and all the other languages.

Music, of course, grew out of the mix. The Portuguese created the ukulele based on several instruments they were familiar with in Portugal. The ukulele, European music, Hawaiian chant, and music traditions from other cultures produce a combination that, like pidgin and like Hawaiian food, is unique to the islands. We discovered the Hilo Town Tavern which had live music several nights a week. We went three times to lear a local group called Kanikapila, who were great. They played all of the Hawaiian standards. Every night, people in the audience would get up and dance, and even join the musicians in performing some songs,

Kanikapila at Hilo Town Tavern with two dancers from the audience.
Hilo Town Tavern, July 27, 2021
Rainbow Falls, Wailuku River, Hilo, Hawaii.

Yesterday, we left Hilo and moved to Waikiki. Our new place on the 20th floor of the Colony Surf, which is at teh Diamond Head end of Waikiki. In fact, Diamond Head fills the view from our window.

Sunrise, Diamond Head, July 30, 2021.
Sail boats off Diamond Head, Waikiki, July 30, 2021.

We have a month here of mostly quiet time, ukulele practice, and visits to museums and old haunts. The temperature here is 82 and breezy so it doesn’t feel like 82. In Dallas and College Station, the temps are 98 and 96 respectively. Why go back?

In previous posts, I lamented that we had not found the good Hawaiian music we had hoped for. One exception was chancing upon Led Ka’apana’s street side performance. Aside from that, we felt that music venues were non-existent or hard to get to. Granted, we didn’t stay long in Waikiki, which has the most music venues, but we had hoped to find some good ones in Kona. Lava Lava Beach Club has a regular schedule, including Henry Kapono, but getting in might require a wait of up to two hours and they put a time limit on your stay. They don’t take reservations, so it is a crapshoot if you can get in for the performance. Huggo’s is similar. We did get into Huggo’s one evening. The performer that night might be up-and-coming, but wasn’t giving his A performance. The entertainment at the luau we attended was actually superior to most luau entertainment, but a luau is a one-off event. So all-in-all, we’ve been disappointed until Tuesday night.

Tuesday, we scored twice. We decided to have dinner at a Japanese noodle/sushi restaurant that looked good. We were not disappointed. The restaurant is small, and, because of covid, operating at 50% capacity, so the wait was long. It was also understaffed because of covid, so service was slow. We understand that and do not hold it against them. We had a hamachi (yellow fin) sushi roll. Mary Fran had the char siu noodle bowl and I had the tan tan noodle bowl. I added a shoyu egg to mine. The noodles were excellent. If you are in Hilo, go to Moms. The long wait and slow service worked in our favor, because we got out later than we intended, just in time to hear a band starting up at Hilo Town Tavern. Had we gtten out earlier, we might have headed directly home without hearing music. We had tried Hilo Town Tavern before, but they had no performers on that night. On this night, however, the performers were a group who call themselves Kanikapila, which means “Let’s play music.”

The group Kanikapila at Hilo Town Tavern, 7/21/21

We had seats almost at the front. As you can see, there was only one table in front of us. The guys in the band gave their names, but I didn’t recognize them. I recognized most of their songs. They did a great job on them. At one point during the performance, they called a young guy up from the audience to join them. He sang some Lena Machado songs. Lena is a long-time performer who was very popular in the ‘60s and ‘70s. She was great at hitting the high registers and this kid was surprising at hitting them too. Then the guys at thee table in front of us left and the server took it a ay to open the dance floor. First the young kid took the floor and did the hula to Hi’ilawe and a couple of other songs.

Solo dancer at Hilo Town Tavern 7/20/21

When he finished, he invited his kumu hula, his dance teacher, to perform. Finally, three aunties in the audience stepped up to perform. It was exactly the kind of spontaneous fun we had been looking for.

Kumu hula, Hilo Town Tavern, 7/20/21
Aunties, Kumu, and the kid, Hilo Town Tavern 7/20/21

They will be performing there again on Friday night and we will be there.

While Mary Fran was getting a pedicure downtown yesterday, I stopped in at the Ukulele and Guitar store on main street (Kamehameha.) I made an appointment for some lessons with the uke instructor at the store.

Hilo has been rainy and, unlike Texas, cool the past two days. The forecast is for more rain and cool temps all week. That’s fine with us. We don’t need to hit the beach everyday. Just looking at the lush vegetation is enough to remind us how lucky we are to be here. The rain seems to be the remnant of tropical storm, now depression, Felicia that is petering out as it nears the islands. Bye, bye Felicia.

Incredible colors in the sky and water just after sunset last night, Hilo, 7/21/21
Maunakea in the distance shrouded in early morning clouds, 7/21/21

We moved over to the other side of the island Saturday, to a condo in Hilo. It’s not a bad little condo, but, as in previous trips, the condo in Hilo is the most disappointing of all. It’s a comfortable, two-bedroom place, but the furnishings are drab and lacking in imagination. The view is very different than the views in the Kona condos. No dolphins playing in the water. Instead, we look out on a tropical rainforest surrounding a series of tide pools. It’s very pleasant and relaxing. Because Hilo is on the eastern side of the mountains, we don’t get to see sunsets. Instead, get to see Hilo streets at night.

Downtown Hilo, 7/17/21

We wen looking for a place to eat and perhaps hear live music. We found Hilo Town Tavern, in the building with the mural of a woman. It’s a dive bar that we were told might have performers. Unfortunately on that night it didn’t. The burgers were big and delicious and the beer was cold, so what more could you ask. The bar is on Keawe St. which has a string of bars and eateries, so we will be returning to it.

One of the reasons we are taking an extended vacation is so that we can enjoy and savor the local culture. When the kids were with us, I regretted that we didn’t have more time to do just that. We were always going here and there to some new sight or beach, which of course was fun, but we didn’t really connect with the locals. Yesterday, Sunday, we spent some time wandering around a huge farmer’s market between Kea’au and Pahoa, the Maku’u market. The market itself covered several acres. It was row upon row of fruit and vegetable sellers, craft sellers, plant sellers, and food vendors. There were Hawaiian, Thai, and Mexican offerings. There were coffee vendors and a guy selling vintage aloha shirts. I had to force myself to stay away from his tent.

Maku’u Farmer’s Market entrance.
Lychee and Rambutan from the Maku’u market

W bought papayas, avocados, bananas, tomatoes, onions, and lychee from a Chinese lady who tossed in some rambutans for free.

It’s easy enough to eat your way across the island. On leaving the market, we passed a stand selling laulau and another selling hulihuli chicken. We stopped for the chicken and bought one whole one we will probably eat all week. The guy was also frying fish, which looked good and smelled even better. i would have bought some, but there was just the two of us. I did buy some lummpia—bananas wrapped in egg roll wrappers and deep fried. They were warm, so we ate them in the car. We stopped at Sack n Save for ahi poke and tako poke.

This stretch of coast doesn’t have much in the way of beaches. Instead, it has beach parks around tide pools among the lava. We have yet to visit the pools, but plan to do so soon.

Tide pools at Keaukaha Beach Park, Hilo. Mauna Kea in background with observatories on the peak.

I walked down the rod and came across some Nene, the Hawai’i state bird.

Nene in Hilo, 7/19,21

We have a tropical forest behind our condo, so the sun rise is hidden by the luxuriant foliage.

Sunrise, Hilo, 7/19/21

It’s been a full week with Anne and Mike. We had our anniversary brunch at Magics near Magic Sands beach. The food was good; the view was better. They had a fancy drink, the Lilikoi Lani that was too sweet for me. The Big Wave Ale is a good fallback when the drinks disappoint.

Mary Fran and Anne at Magics, 7/11/21
Good size crowd at Magic Sands. Moderate waves, 7/11/21

On Monday we toured paniolo country up in Waimea and then headed to Waipi’o Valley and the Hamakua Coast. One thing about a convertible—the front passengers are comfortable but the passengers in back get beat up by the wind. We tried riding with the windows up, which helped a little, but ultimately decided to keep the top up except for some scenic stretches with low speed limits. The other thing we learned is that, at 70 years old, getting out of the car, especially the back seat, can be a challenge. It’s easier to do with the top down, but even so, we are not leaping out of the car like teenagers.

Tex Drive-in in Honoka’a is reputed to be one of the top three places for malasadas on the Big Island. We tried them, but found them disappointing. I think we have been spoiled by Leonard’s Malasadas in Honolulu. We visited Laupahoehoe Point, which we had visited with the kids and then went on to Akaka falls near Honomu. Honomu is a quaint little plantation town that boasts a bakery, an Orthodox church, a Hongwanji Mission, a Roman Catholic church, and a United Church of Christ, all in a two-block stretch of the main street. It’s the kind of town I could move to.

Akaka Falls, 7/12/21

The. next day we spent the morning at Magic Sands, doing boogie boarding and then went to the market for some booze. As might be expected, we bought too much.We still have a lot left over.

Sunset 7/13/21, Kona

Wednesday, we visited Hapuna Beach and then went to a luau at Mai Grille near the Hilton Waikoloa. Most luau’s are held at a beach. This, however, was held at a golf course. At first we were skeptical. It was smaller in venue than other luau’s, a tad more formal (shoes and masks are required.) The dinner was plated instead of buffet style, which also makes for a different atmosphere. The entertainment was great. The musicians were terrific. I talked to them afterwards about ukes and Hawaiian music. The dancers were a delight to see. Thy avoided the schlocky stuff you often see at luau’s where people from the audience are invited on stage to try to hula while everybody makes fun of them. Even the fire dancer was exciting.

Mai Grille Luau dancers, sunset, 7/14/21

Thursday, we toured the volcano and had lunch at Kilauea Lodge in Volcano Village. The lodge is an historic building, having been built in 1938 as a YMCA. It has a huge fireplace made of stones contributed by Lions, Rotary, and Kiwanis clubs from across the US and other countries. Mary Fran and I had not heard of it, so it was really a pleasant surprise. We all had burgers, which were fine. Mike had his first loco moco, We shared a bowl of Portuguese bean soup. The volcano, itself, is an impressive reminder of nature’s force. A crater one thousand six hundred eighty feet deep was blasted out of the caldera in 2019.

On this excursion, we made a stop at Punaluu Black Sand Beach, which is home to green sea turtles who frequently bask on the beach. Sea turtles almost never bask on a beach, except fo a few species of green sea turtles and only in a few locations. Hawai’i is one of those places. Hawksbill turtles can be found in the waters, but never on the beach. Sea turtles are protected and people are required tto keep their distance.

Green sea turtle, Punalu’u Beach, 7/15/21

Most mornings this week, we have seen a pod of Hawaiian spinners in the water off our lanai. We are usually alerted to their presence by guide boats slowing down to observe them. After watching these boats all week, I have decided that there needs to be further restrictions on how close the boats and swimmers can get to them. At present, boats are not allowed to pursue dolphins and swimmers are not allowed to try to catch up to them, but only float above them. From what i see, I think too many boats and swimmers are crossing the line.

One aside, Mary Fran thinks the captain of the boat that took us snorkelig, Captain Sharkey, resembles Gardner McKay who played Adam Troy in Adventures in Paradise.

Sunset last night, 7/15/21. No green flash.
Bad weather at sea, 7/16/21

Anne and Mike left this morning, so it will just be the two of us for the next six weeks.

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